SCOTTSDALE

THE MISSION

FIRST TASTE: THE MISSION CELEBRATES LATIN AMERICAN FLAVORS - JESS HARTER, EAST VALLEY TRIBUNE

11/04/2008 - More than 500 years after Columbus “discovered” the New World, Italy and Latin America cross paths again at The Mission, a new downtown Scottsdale restaurant where the fusion yields unusual but tasty hybrids such as chorizo porchetta and espresso churros.

The restaurant — the brainchild of Terry Ellisor and chef Matt Carter, both from Scottsdale’s acclaimed French restaurant Zinc Bistro, and Brian Raab, of Phoenix’s Merc Bar — takes over the building most recently occupied by last year’s short-lived Union Wine Bar & Grill.

The interior layout is mostly unchanged, but The Mission’s remodeled décor — featuring crosses and candles, dark wood and aged metal — solemnly reinforces the new moniker. A small, front courtyard provides prime open-air seating on pleasant evenings.

Carter’s menu offers seven appetizers and 10 entrees, the majority grilled to perfection over pecan and mesquite charcoal.

An appetizer listed simply as “chicken thighs” ($9, pictured at left) proves so much more: The poultry, smoky but still incredibly moist, is stacked with black beans, ham hocks, rocoto pepper and cotija cheese on crispy South American cornmeal bread known as arepa.
The three pieces, similar to tostadas, could make a light meal by themselves.

Looking for something with more fire? Try the beef antichuchos ($10), two small skewers — each with a half-dozen pieces of succulent meat barely bigger than dice — seasoned with oregano, black pepper and a spicy sauce made with South American panca peppers.

You’ll probably want to indulge in a starter because most entrees at The Mission are fairly small. What they may lack in size, however, they more than make up for with big flavors.

A boneless short rib ($25, pictured at right) comes with the strangest refried beans I’ve ever tasted. Turns out they’re not beans at all, but whipped plantains with a hint of sweet tamarind. And the dollop of “sauce” on the side? Peanut butter! (Which, it turns out, goes surprisingly well with the barbecued meat.)

The previously mentioned chorizo porchetta ($19), a tender Italian pork roast seasoned with the sausage, is deftly complemented by white beans and a sweet garlic crema.

Even something as seemingly straight-forward as chicken tacos ($14) get a nice twist with white Chihuahua cheese, more rocoto and handmade corn tortillas.

Desserts are just as creative. And, like the entrees, they’re not overwhelming portions that will leave you feeling stuffed.

A dish of crunchy churros ($8, pictured at right) laced with espresso is paired with a mini milkshake (made with Mexican Ibarra chocolate) instead of the traditional hot chocolate.

Pastel de limon ($6), two rounds of custard-y lemon cake, are topped with coconut and mango. A buñuelo ($6), or fritter, is accompanied by a small scoop of lime sorbet.

The Mission also offers a nice selection of wines, available by the glass or bottle, and, of course, some tempting margaritas (including a $100 version for two made with Don Julio 1942 anejo tequila and centennial-edition Grand Marnier).

Alas, they have to wait for another evening when I’m off the clock.
I’m really looking forward to that return trip.

The Mission
Where: 3815 N. Brown Ave., Scottsdale (one block east of Scottsdale Road, three blocks south of Indian School Road)
Open: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: Appetizers $5-$16, salads $8-$10, entrees $14-$32, sides $5-$8, desserts $6-$8.
Info: (480) 636-5005 or themissionaz.com.
First Tastes offer first impressions of new East Valley restaurants. Full reviews, based on multiple visits, aren’t written until restaurants have been open at least a couple months.